Discussion in 'The Bar' started by gridman, Sep 24, 2012.
shut the fuck up phil
Last time my microwave went out, it was like some little tiny person from star Trek was beaming out inside of my micro. I don't think door switches would have helped.
New magnetron and capacitor and you would have been back up for around $50. Easy job.
@BaddFunn. I need help man. I have a taco brass circulating pump that's going to feed a brazed flat plate exchanger and to keep the layout clean and nice the pump needs to have the flow going down. Is that bad? I remember someone saying air will fuck that shit up if it doesn't flow up. Any advice is appreciated.
flow going down is absolutely no problem. The only time are can cause cavitation is when the pump is sideways with the body up.
like if it was positioned like this you may have air issues.
rotate it 90 degrees clockwise or counterclockwise and you should be ok.
to be clear, you can still pump sideways, up, or down if you want, just not the way that pump is in the pic
the city removed the sewer lid out front of my house to spray for sewer roaches,now I have a piss smell coming from there.i called to complain and they said get a plumber to flush your lines.i told told them I didn't have this problem before you guys came out.
its costing me 100 bucks today.mfr's
Yea I read about the motor having to be horizontal. Thanks for that info. It will make this install much easier.
update : a while back I posted that after spending 8 k on a new compressor and new duct work insulation
my average monthly electric bill went from 141.00 to 100.00 and now down to 86.00.
That's great. Just twelve more years and you will have saved what you spent on the improvements
i'll be 75 by then,maybe I have a chance.
I got my pump installed and it's working great but the fucking check valve I installed is chattering like crazy. I'm getting good flow cause I can feel the pipes heat up super fast when I energize the pump but the noise has me worried. Any idea? Also... The return of the pump to the tanks was easy - I removed the drain valve and put in a brass T with a small nipple so I could pipe the return and still have the drain. The supply is bothering me now. I just tapped right into the main hot line feeding the whole house. I'm wondering if that is going to cause me flow problems when the pump runs and a few hot water faucets are opened. Should I T off the T/P relief valve for the supply to the pump so it has no effect on the main feed? Seems like that would be a better setup to me but wanted to run it by you first.
You use a swing or spring check valve?
I might have to see how you piped it cause I'm having trouble picturing what you're describing. I'm kinda buzzed right now.
Spring valve. Hold on. I'll post a pic...
Spring check be chattering?
I watched the Giant game by my buddy's house with some friends and when I went to use the bathroom I saw a sign on the toilet tank that said jiggle handle. I look in the tank and see this old flapper getting hung up when I flushed it so I ran out to my truck, grabbed a new one, and replaced it for him. I'm like the plumbing fairy.
Why come it chatters? Anyway this was the only pic I had on my phone. The pump flows down. I'm taking hot water from the main hot water pipe feeding the whole house, running it into a flat plate heat exchanger, then over to the top of this pictured pump and you can see the rest. I'm thinking pulling my hot from that main pipe may not be the best idea. I feel like I should change it so it matches how I tee'd off these drains but use the Temp/Pressure relief port. Can I do that? That way I'm not circulating water using pipe that also is used to feed faucets and the rest of the house.
You sure as fuck are