Discussion in 'The Bar' started by gridman, Sep 24, 2012.
I'm involved with these pretty often but on a much smaller scale. Main water valve in the house is broken or leaking and I call the water dept to turn the curb box off but they can't locate it or it's also broken. Then they bring in their freeze kit and in about 10 minutes the pipe is blocked with ice and I'm quickly replacing the valve before it thaws. It's always exciting to have to power through the job before that ice melts.
I bought this kit (with the company card ) and used it today.
Worked like a charm.
Of course, the fuckin' thing got stuck and as I was pulling it out, I jammed my thumb against the copper on the other end and now I've got one of those blood spots under my fingernail.
Can't wait to see what this thing looks like in a couple months.
My momma palm got too tall to trim using my 8' ladder. I took a drill and two bolts/wingnuts and added 10 more feet to my saw with some leftover trim I had in the garage. Home Depot wants like 40 - 50 $$ for an extension saw. See you in 2020, suckers.
I use a rig like that for tree branches except its on a long aluminun extension pole and the saw has a curved blade to cut on forward and backward strokes.
I'm looking at an investment property that has asbestos siding. I know the stuff around pipes etc has to go and that can be costly but this is the first time I've been interested in one with the siding.
Anybody know if that's a huge deal as far as government mandated remediation etc esp. related to rental property...?
There's an state government clown in my area that pulls building permits and busts my balls about lead paint every time I buy one of these properties and do any rehab that requires a permit.
I'm concerned that the siding may give him a boner and cost me big $$.
In GA if that matters
Thanks in advance if anybody can provide info
In most states that siding is considered "non friable". Usually non friable materials don't require licensed contractors to remove it. Disposal requirements vary all over the country. You need to check with your local air pollution agency (or state agency) as they're the ones that deal with the asbestos. Friable asbestos carries regulations that require licensing and training for removal over 3 square / lineal feet.
Here in Oregon, the State has a law that if an asbestos shingle breaks into 4 separate pieces it becomes a 'friable". We do quite a bit of these removals, it usually runs around 2 to 3k here.
What if I don't want to remove it? There's nothing wrong with it, it doesn't even need paint.
I'm afraid of inspector dick breath citing some obscure statute that requires remediation before I can have anybody move in.
I also got burned - $6500 - on my last project (related to a fire alarm) despite having everything preapproved by every commissioner I could think of. So somebody down town telling me I'm cool holds far less water than someone in your position.
Very much appreciate the response.
The first rule of asbestos abatement is if it doesn't need to be removed, leave it. I don't know of any requirements to remove asbestos from rental properties unless the material is so damaged fibers are able to get airborne. The rules for lead paint are different as the paint breaks down and lead gets on the floor where the kids play. Asbestos is far more resilient. I've seen houses completely burn to the ground where the only thing left was the asbestos siding with all the paint burned off, looking brand new right of the box.
Granite counter question..
Right now our kitchen sink is sits on top of the granite counter surface. We'd like to get another sink and mount it under the granite. I assume that since the sink is on top, the granite edges are unfinished. Is this something that can be polished smooth on site?
Here is an instructable on polishing the outside edges of a granite counter - in theory the inside should be able to be polished the same way. Probably something I would ask a granite installer to come and do though.
bump for @DrSublux