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Misc. Offset toilet flange

Discussion in 'The Howard Stern Show' started by larryluncg, Apr 3, 2019.

  1. Caomhan

    Caomhan Titties and Beer Gold

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    larryluncg likes this.
  2. Lagersolut

    Lagersolut VIP Extreme Gold

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    I hope you used quality concrete anchors for your flange.

    [​IMG]
     
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  3. larryluncg

    larryluncg What it do baby VIP Gold

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    I didn’t do the install but did see him using the screws that came with the flange. It’s a bit of a hack job as you can see here

    C0D199C5-3C5F-4F78-8AD7-C8A37DD6EB36.jpeg
     
  4. larryluncg

    larryluncg What it do baby VIP Gold

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    I have to call in another plumber....this is what I want

    1A072F16-2AE8-4FC0-8AB5-7C25699C8878.jpeg
     
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  5. Lagersolut

    Lagersolut VIP Extreme Gold

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    You have one good thing going - it’s not copper - CPVC is easy to work with .
     
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  6. Mr Pink

    Mr Pink Well-Known Member

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    Tapcons rule!! They were a godsend when they appeared 30 (?) years ago. Really, they were awesome
    Looks like shit. You can get a hinged escutcheon plate to cover that mess. And always demand quarter-turn valve stops. Fuck those shitty gate valves
     
  7. Lagersolut

    Lagersolut VIP Extreme Gold

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    Those ramset anchors are fucking garbage - it's what the contractor used to fasten all my conduit/receptacle boxes to the downstairs block walls when we built and every last one backed out .replaced them all with tap cons

    I had a transfer switch installed at the service panel for my emergency generator and I told the fuckn' guy ..... you're using tap cons the ramsets stay in the fucking van
     
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  8. EllegantElliotOffen

    EllegantElliotOffen New Member

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    Because you are working with PVC, as opposed to copper, this allows you to simply do the following in order to obtain your desired aesthetics as well as protect your investment, which in this current location is seemingly begging to be broken off BEHIND the drywall - destroying everything entirely.
    You will need the following tools, preferably *.
    1.) An Oscillating dremel * or a drywall keyhole saw
    2.) A shop vac* or broom and dustpan
    3.) Basic plumbers tools and hand tools - adjustable crescent wrench, channel locks, screwdrivers
    4.) PVC pipes of appropriate size diameter as well as some fittings (they are cheap, get extras for other stuff that eventually will need down the road) elbows, 45 bends, T's, straight to straight couplers. Some PVC primer and glue. And a pvc saw or cutter. You could even go for some flex-pvc pipe, it's based on you and what you see when you open up that drywall.
    5.) A plastic access panel, anywhere from 8" x 8" to 24" x 24"
    6.) Bucket, mop, towels, sponges, etc.

    Go shut off your water to the home in the front yard. (youtube if you are unsure how to... infact, youtube everything you want regarding this)

    Shut the valve to the toilet, flush the toilet.

    Cut open that drywall to the right size of the access panel you are choosing to go with. Now you can see what is back there. Find a spot to cut that sucker, and then arrange the new set up however you would like. You can obtain some pretty nifty sconces or panels that will allow you to hide that water valve to the toilet and tuck it in out of sight and away from being hit.

    Personally, I would just go with straight up pvc flex.

    You can make it look as nice as you want to if you have the time.

    Hell, you could even just do it all over again and this time use an offset toilet flange that will move the entire operation 2" forward from the wall.

    https://www.solidtoilet.com/8-9-inch-rough-in-toilet/

    If you wanted, you could have gotten a wall mounted toilet like in the God father...
     
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  9. Mr Pink

    Mr Pink Well-Known Member

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    In cali cpvc was not allowed until a little while ago because glued joints aren't as permanent/reliable as mechanical fastening (like threads, solder or shark bite). PEX is fine but once you get to the wall, it's so flimsy that I would never stub that flaccid shit out the wall. This is what you need to make a stub out bullet proof and sturdy enough to withstand putting a wrench to if you need to replace the valve-stop now and again.

    Two big screws into a block and that's not going anywhere. I put them at every valve-stop and the showerhead so you can put a heavy head on there if you want to

    Pro tip: get the shark bite version and you can connect to copper, CPVC or PEX instantly and reliably

    [​IMG]
     
  10. Flymo

    Flymo Well-Known Member

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  11. Lagersolut

    Lagersolut VIP Extreme Gold

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    Gotta love California - those glued joints are stronger than the pipe. I intentionally stayed away from copper when I built years ago for two reasons .....CPVC is easy to work with and this area is prone to hard water, the minerals accumulate and build up inside copper pipe over time can slow water flow to a trickle .
     
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  12. Mr Pink

    Mr Pink Well-Known Member

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    I should say that glued joints traditionally aren't considered as permanent as mechanical fastening, that is until CPVC. I guess it took a while to convince Cali because of the higher standard of building codes here.

    Not a plumber by trade but don't hard water deposits build up in plastic to?
     
  13. EllegantElliotOffen

    EllegantElliotOffen New Member

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    I never worked with copper for plumbing, but did for HVAC for the R-22. I was a helper for a guy that owned his own HVAC/Commercial Refrigeration business and had one or two guys working for him. I never liked working with the copper - everything was easy to learn on day one except for working with copper and installing ductwork, both of which I never got the hang of after 2 summers, or 6-8 months total of employment there. The copper was flimsy, expensive, required soldering, so silver solder, torches, and acetylene and o2, inspection mirrors, bubble soap, copper cutters, sandpaper, and insulation. It was frightening because the copper would glow red hot in the noonday sun, and shoot little spitting molten bb's of molten solder that I feared, and on top of that if I screwed up anything it was unforgivable- And so I never had the desire to learn it; I just stood there and watched my boss do it while he yelled at me because I was never capable of obtaining the right amount of moisture in a rag to fit his 'seeping-wet' demand for a wet rag to cool the joint (I don't even know if he was doing anything the industry standard way).

    While I am on the subject, I was a landscaper in Florida for 7 years. If anybody has any questions about irrigation, equipment, or landscaping in Florida like plants, sod, pruning, or maybe even about starting a landscaping business - I will try to help answer your questions if that's what you want. By the way, here is a tip for the future regarding repairing/replacing any sprinkler - maybe it was run over and broken under the ground, maybe it broke off in the threads, maybe it was nicked by an edger or shovel at the pipe and has a slow leak, maybe it is just time to update, move, or change the height... We liked to make 10" 'whips' for our repairs - Using flex pvc, cut about a 10" length (the longer as possible the better) and glue a slip by slip coupler to one end of the flex and a slip by thread to the other end - to make a repair now all we had to do was couple the whip to the existing irrigation under the ground at the slip by slip - screw in the sprinkler to the slip by thread - and then it was just holding it in your left hand at the right height and position, and backfilling with your right hand until it was steady enough to stand on it's own in place. Not only is it easier, it can withstand more abuse without breaking because it gives, and if ever there needs a repair in the future - just cut an inch or so beneath the slip by thread coupler and attach a new slip by thread coupler and repeat - since there is already slack to begin with, you can achieve the same exact height and position even after cutting several inches. I usually left the customers some 'whips' so they could do it themselves in the future. Anyway, PVC is actually fun and about as complicated as 'Lincoln Logs' - so it was right up my alley. I am not mechanically inclined or a craftsman at all, so if I can do it than anybody can.

    And it goes without saying I guess, that nothing I advise is industry standard or something I learned in a continual education class for a permit or license or mandated by an employer or something - it just worked but it may be technically not the best or even right way.
     
  14. EllegantElliotOffen

    EllegantElliotOffen New Member

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  15. EllegantElliotOffen

    EllegantElliotOffen New Member

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    Yeah that is a foul-up - Mr Pink's quote ends at the shark-bite and my reply begins at the last paragraph.
     
  16. EllegantElliotOffen

    EllegantElliotOffen New Member

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    Gangsta' Talk!

    RRRiiiiigghhtt?